First, let's talk about water in skin care. It is not possible to have a water free skincare line, however, there are ways to avoid adding water as an ingredient. Water is not a beneficial ingredient, so why is it often added into skincare? The simplest explanation would be - the price. Believe it or not, some products contain up to 95% water! And that could be a high priced and even organic certified skincare product.
As a product formulator, I can break down product formualtions, let's take a facial toner as an example.
If toner ingredient list contains:
Water, Ginkgo biloba leaf extracts (Botanical extract), Safflower Oleosomes (solubilizer that helps to mix water and essential oil), Glycerin (humectant), Leucidal (preservative), Orange essential oil.
Knowing that botanical extracts in skin care are allowed at 0-10%, solubilizers 5%, humectants 0-5%, preservative 1% and essential oils 1%. If all other ingredients were used to the maximum allowed capacity, it leaves this formulation with 78% water. I should have a very low expectation for such a product to be beneficial for my skin. How would we fix this product? It is simple, replace water with hydrosol.
Here is an example of 100% beneficial toner, it is my Premium Balance: Aloe Vera Juice (49%) Witch hazel (48%) Leucidal (2%) Neroli essential oil (1%)
Aloe Vera is known to have a smaller molecular structure than water, so is capable of penetrating deeper into the skin. It promotes skin healing, is soothing and hydrating. Witch Hazel is an antibacterial substance. It is astringent and helps with skin’s inflammation including acne condition. Leucidal is a natural preservative derived from sauerkraut and radishes. Besides preventing the growth of the bacteria in the product it also helps with hydration. Neroli essential oil is derived via steam distillation from orange blossoms. It promotes wound and scar healing and smells devine.
What is a hydrosol? Hydrosols are produced by distilling fresh leaves, fruits, flowers, and other plant materials, such as bark, roots and wood. Hydrosols have similar properties to essential oils, but are much less concentrated. Only the top 25-30% of the hydrosol is known to have strong beneficial properties, the rest of the hydrosol is waste water. Cool fact, hydrosols have a benefit that essential oils don’t, it comes from the water soluble contents in the plant material that are not present in the essential oil.
Hydrosols are amazing in Toners! Depending on the material it was extracted from, it can be soothing, hydrating, or antibacterial. Toners are a liquids sprayed onto the skin and absorbed almost immediately. It is one of the fastest ways to introduce wanted benefits into the skin. Most people skip this skincare step thinking that is just worthless water, and it could be, it totally depends on the product.
Hydrosols sometimes are called Floral waters, but usually these are totally different products.
What are Floral Waters? Floral waters are made by adding a small amount (up to 1% in facial skin care and up to 2% in body products) of essential oil or essential oil blend. The mixture is left for a few days and then essential oils are filtered off. Since only the aroma is left in the water, and there are no water soluble substances that are created in the process of the distillation, the benefits are not comparable to hydrosols.
As a practicing skin therapist and a spa owner, I am motivated to formulate skincare that is active, beneficial and makes a difference. I am always researching, making notes, trying new formulations and adjusting the older creations of mine.
Conclusion. If you have high expectations for the skincare you are using, try to avoid buying products that list water as a first ingredient. If you are not sure if your toner contains true hydrosol or floral water, ask the company who makes/sells it.
Examples of beneficial Toners:
Revitalizing Rosewater Generations of women have used Rosewater for their beautification skin care routine. Reduce inflammation, increase hydration, and sooth your skin.
Soothing Hydration Instant soothing hydration for sensitive skin. Ideal for travelers/sun kissed skin.
Manuka Toner Antibacterial mist helps to reduce inflammation and tone oily acne prone skin.
Premium Balance As the name depicts, toning with this mist will balance out oils in any skin time. Witch Hazel and Aloe Vera Juice have the perfect astringent and hydration balance.
Diana Ralys
Owner of Radiance Wellness Spa
Formulator of
Diana Ralys Skin Health products
Licensed Esthetician
Certified Oncology Esthetican
Certified Integratic Health Coach
Certified Drugless Practitioner
Reiki Master Practitioner
Published Author
Inspirational Speaker